From Harlem Roots to a Beauty Revolution: The Rise and Closing Chapter of Ami Colé
In 1989, my Senegalese parents purchased a modest hair salon on 125th Street in the heart of Harlem. It was one of the first African braiding salons in the U.S., and my mother, Aminata “Ami” Colé, worked tirelessly — often with me, her baby daughter, tied to her back — braiding hair for up to 12 hours a day. Her signature question at the end of every session was, “Do you like?” She knew beauty wasn’t finished until it made someone feel radiant.
That philosophy became the foundation for Ami Colé, the clean, inclusive beauty brand I launched in May 2021. It was a tribute to my mother’s legacy, rooted in community, confidence, and culture. Our first product — a skin tint designed for melanin-rich skin — filled a glaring gap in the market. Our Lip Treatment Oil sparked a viral movement. We weren’t just another beauty brand; we were a mirror for Black and brown women who rarely saw themselves in glossy ads or store shelves.
As we grew, I heard story after story from customers who had never found their true foundation match until Ami Colé. A girl in Paris once flashed her empty Lip Oil at me in an airport. I cried tears of joy when someone messaged me, saying, “This brand is ME.” And yet, even with global praise, over 80 beauty awards, and shelf space in Sephora, our journey is coming to a bittersweet close.
Ami Colé will officially shut down in September 2025.
It’s a heartbreaking decision. This brand bears my mother’s name — and in many ways, my daughter’s too. But the current beauty landscape has become nearly impossible for small, independent brands to survive. Despite early success and a fiercely loyal customer base, the road forward was no longer sustainable.
The Dream That Sparked a Movement
I’ve spent my life obsessed with the nuances of shade ranges, undertones, and the often overlooked beauty needs of Black and brown women. In college, I transformed my dorm into a makeshift studio, sourcing L’Oréal HIP shadows from CVS to glam up my friends. I was devastated when the only available foundation options left their faces looking ashy or too red.
After graduating, I returned to NYC and worked across beauty and media, witnessing the racism that quietly shaped the industry in the 2010s. On forums like Into the Gloss, I debated formulas, praised icons like Kelly Rowland, and found a community that saw beauty as both art and activism. Eventually, I pitched myself for a Top Shelf feature — and it worked. That spotlight helped lead to a role developing Glossier’s first skin tint, where I became a voice for the voiceless in product development.
But behind the scenes, I lacked mentorship and was often pushed to the sidelines. It was frustrating — and clarifying. I realized that if I wanted to build something truly meaningful, I’d need to do it myself.
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Building Ami Colé Against All Odds
In 2019, I began shaping the vision for what would become Ami Colé. I surveyed hundreds of women on their routines, frustrations, and desires. Their answers were clear: They needed formulas that matched their skin, reflected their experiences, and made them feel beautiful without compromise.
VC funding was another challenge. Less than 1% of capital goes to Black founders — even less to solo women like me. I poured my savings, maxed out my credit cards, and leveraged my small social following to bring the idea to life.
I pitched to over 150 investors, receiving rejection after rejection. One told me the brand lacked “star power” and called my inclusive shade vision “nondescript.” But after the tragic murder of George Floyd in 2020, the corporate world briefly woke up. Suddenly, my inbox filled with opportunities. Within months, I became one of just 30 Black women to raise over $1 million in startup funding.
We launched during a global shift toward clean beauty and inclusivity. Our tints and oils sold out within weeks. We earned industry accolades and were named to Oprah’s Favorite Things. Celebrities like Kelly Rowland, Mindy Kaling, and Hailey Bieber used our products, but the real validation came from everyday women who told me we made them feel seen.
The Cost of Growth
In 2022, Ami Colé entered Sephora, expanding to 600 stores nationwide in just 16 months. But this success came with immense pressure. To maintain shelf space, you need not just strong products, but deep marketing budgets and constant sales momentum. We tried to compete, scaling production and spending heavily on advertising, but the market shifted. Sometimes we sold out after a single influencer shoutout. Other times, we were stuck with unsold inventory.
Our focus drifted from our loyal community to chasing profitability and appeasing investors. The supportive tone that defined early investor interest began to waver. The same people who once championed inclusivity began to pull back, and the cracks widened.
With increasing tariffs, rising costs, and a volatile economy, continuing was no longer viable.
What Comes Next
Closing Ami Colé has been soul-stretching. I’m grieving the end of something that meant the world to me. But I’m also filled with pride. We proved that clean beauty can be inclusive. We created something real, not just for the beauty industry, but for the women it often ignores.
From a Harlem braiding salon to the shelves of Sephora, we carried a legacy. My mother’s lessons — community, care, joy — were woven into every product.
To every person who ever tried our Lip Oil, wore our Skin-Enhancing Tint, or felt seen by our mission: thank you. You were the reason for it all.
Although this chapter comes to a close, my passion for beauty and advocacy endures. I’m not done — not by a long shot. There’s still so much more to build, to dream, and to fight for.
